How to tile a bath panel

Before you start tiling, you’ll need to install tile backer boards that are suitable for use in wet and humid areas onto your wall. This is because new changes to British standards guidance advises the use of tile backing boards when installing new bathroom tiles. These will need to be sealed with a primer to reduce porosity levels and certain areas will need to be tanked. 

Measure up your bath panel. Consider your wall and floor tile placement and take measurements accordingly to ensure the tile panel edges align. Don’t forget to account for the gaps between the tiles when measuring up. 

Use a spirit level to make sure your markings are at a perfect 90-degree angle. 

Transfer your bath panel’s measurements onto the tiles. Then trim them down with a single straight cut, using a manual tile cutter.

You may need to cut notches in some tiles, for example at the lip of the bath. Before you do this, thoroughly measure the space that needs to be filled. Mark your measurements onto the tile, then using an electric tile cutter or grinder, cut a notch out of your tile.

Dry lay the tiles to make sure they fit perfectly before you start to use adhesive.

Measure the height of your bath and cut the trim with a saw to ensure it fits.

When mixing your adhesive, check the instructions on the packaging for the ideal water-to-product ratio. Mix the adhesive with water until you get a consistency that’s thick enough to hold its shape on the trowel, but still malleable enough to spread easily. 

Wash the paddle with a bucket of clean water to prevent build-up on the whisk.

Apply the adhesive to the wall using the notched side of the spreader. Make sure to create straight, uniform lines so that air bubbles don’t form. 

Apply adhesive to the bottom of the tile using the smooth side of the spreader, making sure to cover the whole surface. This is known as ‘backbuttering’. Scrape any excess back into the bucket.

Press the tile down, making sure to push down on all sides. Use a spirit level to ensure your tiles are laid straight.

Wipe the area clean with a damp sponge to get rid of any adhesive that might have come up through the gap.

When you get to the corner, you can add the trim. Apply adhesive to the area and place the trim onto the corner. You can then continue to tile around the rest of the bath. 

Check the manufacturer’s instructions to find out how long your adhesive will need to dry.

Measure out the cold, clean water and pour it into a clean mixing bucket. Slowly add the grout using the ratio recommended on the packaging.

Mix with a drill and whisk until you get the perfect consistency. Similar to the adhesive, it should be thick enough to hold its shape on the trowel, but still malleable enough to fill the grooves between your tiles.

Place the grout over the joins and gently work it into the gaps with a grout float, making sure it’s flush with the tiles.

When the grout joins become firm and any grout residue on the tiled surface becomes opaque, it’s ready to clean off any residual grout. Use a damp sponge and water to remove any excess from the tiles. Be careful not to apply too much pressure at this stage so you don’t pull any grout out of the joins. It’s also a good idea to wipe across the joins rather than along them for the same reason.

Disclaimer: at this stage, sealant may be required for certain tiles. It’s important to check packaging instructions to see what is required.

If sealant is required for the tile used, apply after the grout has fully set and any residue has been cleaned off.

The final step is to apply your silicone sealant. Pipe it all the way along where the wall meets the floor. You’ll also need to seal any corners where two walls meet.

Use a smoothing tool to scrape away any excess and create a clean, consistent look. 

Make sure to keep the silicone clean throughout the process as any dust or dirt will be permanently visible once it sets.