How to tile a shower and bath splashback

You’ll need to install tile backer boards that are suitable for use in wet and humid areas onto your wall before you start tiling. New changes to British standards don’t allow tiles to be installed directly onto plywood, and these provide a safer, water-resistant, and more stable alternative.

All you need to do is cut your panels to size and screw them into the wall with a drill and specialised corrosion-protected screws, such as stainless steel.

Then seal your walls using a primer to reduce porosity levels.

When tiling a bath or shower splashback, you’ll need to add a few steps to make sure the wall is fully waterproof. This process is called ‘tanking’.

Apply jointing tape to the joins in the backing boards and brush Aqua Defence or tanking solution over the entire wall, covering it completely. This requires two coats to make sure your walls are fully waterproofed.

Make sure to apply sealing or jointing tape around the bath too.

There are a few different ways to lay tiles, such as the straight lay design that you can see here.

If you’ve already tiled some of your wall, make some measurements to ensure your splashback tiling matches this placement. You’ll also want your wall to match your floor, so take measurements of those tiles and mark them on the wall too. Don’t forget to account for the gaps between the tiles when measuring up.

It’s a good idea to use a spirit level so your markings are at a perfect 90-degree angle.

For smaller sections of your wall, you’ll need to cut your tiles to size. Measure the area and transfer these measurements onto your tiles, again making sure you’re subtracting the gaps between the tiles. 

When tiling around a bath, you’ll come across sections where you’ll need to cut out a small notch from your tile or cut holes for your water pipes. Mark these instances onto the tile too. 

Use a manual scribe for straight cuts, an electric tile cutter or grinder for notches, and a drill with a diamond-tip hole cutter for any pipes.

When preparing your adhesive, check the manufacturer’s instructions for the ideal water-to-product ratio. Then use a drill and whisk to mix the adhesive with water until you get a consistency that’s thick enough to hold its shape on the trowel, but still malleable enough to spread easily. 

When you’re done, clean the whisk in a bucket of clean water to prevent the adhesive from building up.

Apply the adhesive to the wall using the notched side of your spreader. Straight, uniform lines help to avoid creating air bubbles, so you get a stronger bond. 

Then you’ll need to ‘backbutter’ the tile, which means using the straight side of the spreader to cover the surface in adhesive. Apply a smooth layer and scrape any excess adhesive back into the bucket.

Place the tile onto the wall in line with your measurements, pushing down on all sides. 

Put spacers in the gaps to make sure everything is evenly spaced.

Use a spirit level to ensure all the tiles are flush. Continue this method across the wall.

If you find you’ll need to tile around a window, there are a few extra steps. 

Measure the length of the window ledge and use a saw to cut a piece of trim to size. 

File the cut ends down so there are no sharp edges. 

Then measure the depth of the ledge and mark your tiles for cutting. 

Cut the tiles with a manual scribe or cutter.

Dry fit them onto the ledge, accounting for the 3mm gap in between, and making sure they match up to the tile pattern you’ve already created in the wall. 

Apply adhesive to the trim and place it onto the edge of the ledge. 

Lay your ledge tiles down with adhesive and let them set before you continue up the sides as they’ll need to dry before they can take any weight. 

Once set, repeat these steps for all four sides of the window. When you get to the top, make sure you’re using enough adhesive and push the tiles down extra hard, so they don’t fall off. The adhesive should be strong enough but it’s best to make sure!

You may also need to cut some tiles when finishing the area around the window. Make your measurements to work out how your tiles will need to be cut. It’s a good idea to make sure the tiles below the window match up with the tiles above. 

To cut large L-shaped notches out of your tiles, use a grinder. For tiles that just need a single straight cut, use a manual scribe.

Check your adhesive’s packaging to find out how long it needs to set. Once set, remove the spacers.

Mix your grout with clean water according to the instructions on the packaging. Then mix with a drill and whisk until you get the perfect consistency. It should be thick enough to hold its shape on the trowel, but still malleable enough to fill the grooves between your tiles.

Starting at the top of the wall, place the grout over the joins and gently work it into the gaps with a grout float, making sure it’s flush with the tiles.

Leave it to partially dry and wipe off any excess with a damp sponge. Be careful not to apply too much pressure at this stage so you don’t pull any grout out of the wall. It’s also a good idea to wipe across the joins rather than along them for the same reason.

Before you start sealing, thoroughly clean the area. This is important as any dust or dirt will be permanently visible once it sets.

Pipe sealant all the way along where the wall meets the floor and the top of the bath or shower. You’ll also need to seal any corners where two walls meet.

Then use a sealant shape tool to scrape away any excess and create a clean, consistent look.